1. To change the size of the sock, add more stitches to the back of the sock where they will be plain stockinette. Just remember to account for them when you work the heel, so the heel is always worked over 50% of your new total stitches.
2. Abbreviations are standard, please refer to Knitty’s list if you’re not sure of any techniques or abbreviations.
Cast on 65 stitches.
Divide the stitches as follows;
4 DPN’s; Needle 1; 33 sts. Needles 2 and 3 (back of the sock) 16 sts each
Magic loop/two circs; Needle 1 33 sts. Needle 2 (back of the sock) 32 sts
Rounds start at the start of Needle 1 unless otherwise noted.
Work p1, k1 for 1 to 1.5 inches, as preferred.
After finishing the ribbing, work one knit round. On the next round, work the lace chevron pattern over needle one, and keep the other two needles in plain stocking stitch (knit every row.) See chart below for the pattern.
Continue the leg as set, until you’re happy with the length. I like a leg of about six inches total.
End on a patterned round of the chart. Finish at the end of Needle 1, as we’ll start the heel straight away.
You’ll be working the heel over the plain stitches (needle 2 and 3 for DPN’s; needle 2 for circs and magic loop) If needed, rearrange your needles so that the pattern stitches are over two needles with the third needle for the plain stitches, so it’s easier to work the short rows.
Short Row Heel
We’ll be working a quick and pleasing short-row heel over the 32 plain stitches. The pattern uses increases and decreases to cut out all those fiddly wraps and turns. This is going to seem odd – but stick with it!
Row 1 (RS) Slip1, knit 31, make one leftwise (m1l). Turn
Row 2 (WS) Slip 1, p30, make one purlwise (m1p). Turn.
Continue in this manner, working one less stitch on each row before making the increase. Finish on the row when you purl 16 stitches.
Turning row 1 (RS) Slip 1, knit 15, ssk, k1. Turn.
Turning row 2 (WS) Slip 1, p15, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Continue in this manner, working one more stitch on each row before making the decrease until you have worked all of your heel stitches up, ending with a WS row. You will now have 32 stitches on your needle again.
Now you can start working in the round again – continuing just where you left off on the patterned stitches on the front of the sock.
Continue working the foot as set, with the pattern on the top of the foot.
How to work out when to start the toe
You’re going to work a short-row toe exactly the same as the heel. So, to work out when to start the toe, measure the depth of the heel. That will be the length of the toe. So subtract that from the full length that you want your sock to be - in my case, nine inches from the tip of the heel. Allow half-an-inch less if you like the toe to be snug.
I like to finish knitting the pattern on the top of the foot one inch before I start my toe so it doesn’t get uncomfortable in my shoe.
Knitting the toe
Work the toe exactly the same as the heel. Once complete, use Kitchener stitch to graft the two sets of 32 stitches together. I like to work the toe starting on the top of the foot so my graft is under my toes, because my grafting can be…imperfect.
Weave in your ends, and make another to match.